Why has my lavender gone woody?

Woodiness happens when lavender is left unpruned or only trimmed on the flower stems. Prune every year after flowering, cutting into the soft green growth but never into old bare wood, which will not reshoot.

Is English or French lavender better for the UK?

English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) is hardier and better suited to most UK gardens outdoors year-round. French lavender (Lavandula stoechas) is less hardy and often needs winter protection or pot cultivation in colder areas.

Why is my lavender dying in winter?

The most common cause is waterlogged soil rather than cold; lavender roots rot in wet, heavy ground. Improve drainage with grit or grow in raised beds or pots with free-draining compost.

Can lavender grow in shade?

Lavender needs full sun for at least six hours a day to flower well and stay compact. In shade it becomes leggy, flowers poorly and is more prone to fungal problems.

How often should I water established lavender?

Established lavender is drought-tolerant and rarely needs watering once settled, except during prolonged dry spells. Overwatering is a far greater risk than underwatering.

When should I plant lavender?

Plant lavender in spring (April to May) once the soil has warmed, giving it a full growing season to establish before winter.

How to Grow Lavender: UK Care Guide

Lavender thrives in the UK when grown in full sun with sharply drained, poor to moderately fertile soil. Choose hardy English lavender for most gardens, plant in spring, avoid rich or waterlogged ground, and prune firmly every year after flowering to keep plants compact, since neglected lavender quickly turns woody and stops flowering well.

Key takeaways

English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) is fully hardy across the UK; French lavender (Lavandula stoechas) needs a sheltered spot or pot cultivation.
Good drainage matters more than soil fertility; lavender dislikes heavy clay and winter wet far more than cold.
Prune every year straight after flowering, trimming into green growth but never cutting back into old bare wood.
Full sun for at least six hours a day is essential for compact growth and strong flowering.
Avoid feeding lavender richly; lush, soft growth from over-fertile soil is more prone to collapse and disease.

Attribute	Detail
Botanical name	Lavandula spp.
Plant type	Evergreen aromatic shrub
Height & spread	30-80cm depending on variety
Hardiness	RHS H5-H6 (English); H3-H4 (French)
Position	Full sun, open and sheltered from winter wet
Soil	Free-draining, poor to moderately fertile, alkaline to neutral
Flowering/interest period	June to August (English); intermittent spring-summer (French)
Difficulty	Easy once drainage is right

Choosing lavender varieties

English lavenders are the most reliable choice for UK borders, hedging and pots, being fully hardy and long-flowering. French lavender, with its distinctive rabbit-ear bracts, is less hardy and best grown in a pot that can be moved under cover in winter, or in a warm, sheltered spot in southern gardens.

Variety	Type	Flower colour	Notes
Lavandula angustifolia 'Hidcote'	English	Deep violet-blue	Compact, excellent for low hedging
Lavandula angustifolia 'Munstead'	English	Lavender-blue	Early flowering, reliably hardy
Lavandula x intermedia 'Grosso'	Lavandin	Deep purple	Vigorous, highly fragrant, good for oil
Lavandula stoechas 'Papillon'	French	Purple with showy bracts	Less hardy, best in pots or mild areas
Lavandula angustifolia 'Nana Alba'	English	White	Very compact dwarf form

Where and when to plant lavender

Plant lavender in April or May once soil has warmed and frost risk has passed, giving roots a full season to establish. Choose the sunniest, most open spot available; lavender planted against a warm south-facing wall or in a gravel garden will perform best. Avoid low-lying frost pockets and areas that stay damp over winter.

How to plant lavender

Improve heavy or clay soil by digging in horticultural grit or coarse sand to aid drainage.
Dig a hole slightly wider than the root ball; avoid enriching with rich compost.
Tease out any circling roots before placing the plant in the hole.
Set the plant at the same depth it was in its pot, not deeper.
Backfill, firm lightly, and water in well to settle the soil.
Space plants 30-45cm apart if planting a hedge, depending on variety vigour.

Watering and feeding

Water newly planted lavender regularly through its first summer to help establish roots, then reduce to occasional watering only in prolonged drought once established. Lavender is naturally drought-tolerant and adapted to poor soils, so avoid rich feeding; an annual light dressing of general-purpose fertiliser in spring is sufficient, and too much nitrogen produces soft, floppy growth prone to collapse.

Pruning lavender to prevent woodiness

The single most important task for long-lived lavender is annual pruning. As soon as flowers fade in late summer (typically August), trim the whole plant with shears or secateurs, removing the flower stems and around 2.5cm of the soft green foliage below, shaping into a neat dome. Never cut back into the old bare wood at the base, as English lavender rarely reshoots from it and the plant will develop permanent gaps. A second, lighter tidy in spring once new growth appears can help refine shape. Plants pruned this way every year stay compact and floriferous for many years; those left unpruned become leggy and woody within three or four seasons. For clean cuts on woody stems, sharp secateurs make a real difference; browse our pruning and garden how-to guides for technique tips.

Propagation

Lavender is easy to propagate from semi-ripe cuttings taken in July or August. Select a non-flowering side shoot around 8-10cm long, strip the lower leaves, and insert into a free-draining mix of compost and perlite. Keep in a cold frame or sheltered spot over winter; rooted cuttings can be potted on and planted out the following spring.

Growing lavender in pots

Lavender does very well in containers, particularly French and Italian types that need winter protection. Use a peat-free compost mixed generously with grit for sharp drainage, choose a pot with large drainage holes, and raise it on pot feet to prevent waterlogging. Water sparingly and move pots to a sheltered position, such as against a house wall, over winter.

Common problems

Problem	Symptom	Fix
Root rot	Wilting, blackened base, sudden collapse	Improve drainage, avoid overwatering, remove affected plants
Woody, leggy growth	Bare stems, few flowers, gappy centre	Prune annually after flowering; replace very old plants
Shab disease (Phomopsis)	Sudden wilting and dieback of stems	Remove and destroy affected plants; avoid overhead watering
Frost damage (French lavender)	Blackened foliage after cold snaps	Grow in pots, move under cover, or fleece in winter
Aphids	Distorted new shoot tips	Encourage ladybirds, rinse off with water

Month-by-month lavender care

Month	Task
January-February	Avoid pruning; protect French lavender in pots from hard frost
March	Light tidy of winter-damaged growth once new shoots appear
April-May	Plant new lavender; improve drainage in beds if needed
June-July	Watch for aphids; take semi-ripe cuttings in July
August	Main prune straight after flowering finishes
September-October	Water sparingly; allow growth to harden before winter
November-December	Move pots to a sheltered spot; avoid winter watering