What is the difference between cherry laurel and Portuguese laurel?

Cherry laurel (Prunus laurocerasus) has larger, glossier leaves and grows faster, making it ideal for tall screening hedges. Portuguese laurel (Prunus lusitanica) has smaller, dark red-stemmed leaves, grows more slowly and copes better with confined spaces and chalky soil.

How far apart should I plant a laurel hedge?

For a dense screen, space cherry laurel plants around 60 to 90cm apart, and Portuguese laurel slightly closer at 45 to 60cm, adjusting depending on plant size and how quickly you want the hedge to fill in.

Should I use shears or secateurs to trim laurel?

Secateurs are best, as shears cut through the large leaves and leave unsightly brown, shredded edges. Secateurs allow each leaf to be cut cleanly at the stem, keeping the hedge looking tidy for longer.

When is the best time to plant a laurel hedge?

Bare-root and root-balled laurels should be planted between November and March while dormant. Pot-grown laurels can be planted at any time of year, though autumn and spring give the best establishment with less watering.

Can an overgrown laurel hedge be cut back hard?

Yes, laurel responds well to renovation. Cut back hard in mid-spring, removing up to two-thirds of the growth, and it will usually resprout from old wood within a season.

Why do my laurel leaves have holes in them?

Small round holes are usually caused by shot hole disease, a fungal infection. Improve air circulation by thinning growth, clear fallen leaves and avoid overhead watering to reduce spread.

How to Grow a Laurel Hedge: UK Care Guide

A laurel hedge gives fast, dense, evergreen screening in almost any UK garden. Choosing between cherry laurel and Portuguese laurel, planting at the right spacing and time of year, and trimming with secateurs rather than shears all help create a healthy, tidy hedge that resists common problems such as shot hole and powdery mildew.

Key takeaways

Cherry laurel grows quickly and suits tall hedges, while Portuguese laurel is slower and more compact.
Space plants 45 to 90cm apart depending on species and desired speed of establishment.
Plant bare-root laurel between November and March; pot-grown plants can go in year-round.
Trim with secateurs, not shears, to avoid shredded, browning leaf edges.
Overgrown laurel hedges can be renovated by hard pruning in mid-spring.

Attribute	Detail
Botanical name	Prunus laurocerasus / Prunus lusitanica
Plant type	Evergreen shrub, grown as hedging
Height & spread	Up to 5m if unpruned; maintained at 1.5-3m as a hedge
Hardiness	RHS H5
Position	Full sun to full shade
Soil	Any well-drained soil, including chalk
Flowering/interest period	White flower spikes in April-May; evergreen foliage year-round
Difficulty	Easy

Choosing varieties

Both cherry and Portuguese laurel make excellent evergreen hedges, but they differ in growth rate, leaf size and ultimate footprint. Browse more hedging options in our plant guides.

Cultivar	Type	Growth rate	Leaf size	Best for
Prunus laurocerasus 'Rotundifolia'	Cherry laurel	Fast	Large, rounded	Tall, quick-growing screens
Prunus laurocerasus 'Novita'	Cherry laurel	Fast	Long, narrow	Upright hedges in less space
Prunus lusitanica	Portuguese laurel	Moderate	Small, dark green	Formal, compact hedges
Prunus laurocerasus 'Etna'	Cherry laurel	Fast	Bronze-red new growth	Colourful, dense screening
Prunus laurocerasus 'Otto Luyken'	Cherry laurel	Slow	Small, narrow	Low hedges under 1.2m

Where and when to plant

Laurel tolerates sun or shade and most well-drained soils, including chalk, making it a versatile choice for boundary hedges. Bare-root and root-balled plants establish best when planted between November and March while dormant, giving roots time to settle before spring growth. Pot-grown laurels can technically be planted at any time of year, but autumn or spring planting reduces the need for regular watering during establishment. Avoid planting during hard frost or when the ground is waterlogged.

How to plant

Clear the planting line of weeds and grass, and dig a trench rather than individual holes for a more even hedge line.
Space cherry laurel 60-90cm apart and Portuguese laurel 45-60cm apart along the row.
Fork in well-rotted organic matter to improve soil structure.
Set each plant at the same depth it was growing in its pot or nursery bed.
Backfill, firm in gently and water thoroughly.
Apply a mulch layer along the row, keeping it clear of the stems.
Water regularly through the first summer, especially during dry spells.

Watering and feeding

Water newly planted laurel well for the first one to two growing seasons until established, as young plants are vulnerable to drought stress. Once settled, laurel is fairly drought-tolerant. Apply a balanced general-purpose fertiliser in spring to encourage strong new growth, and refresh the mulch annually to retain moisture and suppress weeds.

Pruning and trimming

Trim laurel hedges once or twice a year, typically in late spring and again in late summer, avoiding the bird nesting season. Use secateurs rather than shears wherever practical, as shears slice through the broad leaves and leave unsightly brown, shredded edges that take weeks to disappear. For larger hedges this is more time-consuming but gives a much neater finish. See our how-to guides for further seasonal pruning advice.

Propagation

Laurel is easily propagated from semi-ripe cuttings taken in late summer. Select healthy, non-flowering shoots around 15cm long, remove the lower leaves, dip the cut end in rooting hormone and insert into free-draining cutting compost. Keep in a sheltered cold frame or unheated greenhouse over winter, and pot on once well rooted the following spring.

Common problems

Problem	Symptom	Fix
Shot hole disease	Small round holes in leaves	Improve air circulation, remove fallen leaves and avoid wetting foliage when watering
Powdery mildew	White powdery coating on leaves	Thin congested growth, water at the base and remove badly affected leaves
Yellowing leaves	Pale or yellow foliage, often on waterlogged soil	Improve drainage and avoid overwatering
Frost damage	Blackened or scorched leaf edges after cold snaps	Avoid trimming late in autumn so growth can harden before winter

Month-by-month care calendar

Month	Task
January-February	Plan new hedge lines; avoid planting in frozen or waterlogged ground
March	Bare-root planting window closes; apply spring fertiliser
April-May	Flowering occurs; check for shot hole symptoms as new growth emerges
June	First trim of the season using secateurs once nesting birds have fledged
July	Water during dry spells, especially newly planted hedges
August	Take semi-ripe cuttings for propagation
September	Second trim if needed to tidy summer growth
October	Refresh mulch and prepare for bare-root planting season
November-December	Ideal time for bare-root and root-balled planting; renovate overgrown hedges in mid-spring instead